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Zari commonly known as Zardozi is a type of ancient persian embroidery florished duing the reign of Mughal Emperor and Akbar in India and Pakistan. It saw a decline during the reign of Aurangzeb as the royal patronage and favor stopped and the art was too expensive and the precious metals too rare to carry on. But it revived after independence in Hydrabad and Lucknow. Now this embroidery is back in boom and is must on Indian occasions especially on Indian weddings.
Zari is gold, and zardozi embroidery is the glitteringly ornate, heavily encrusted gold thread work. This taditional art is the sheer magic of fingers and imaginative designs and envisaged by lustrous silver or gold plated metallic wire, threads, beads and stones. India the land of culure has wide variety of finest zari embroidery and designs which are used for table linens and variety of shawls. One can experience this beautiful embriodery on famous pashmina shawls of Kashmir and motifs.
Done with metal wire and metal pieces or sequins on velvet, satin and heavy silk bases, Zari is one of the most famous and elaborate techniques in metal embroidery. Popularly known as Aari work, Zari, involves use of beads and a special needle known as Muthia which is similar to a crochet needle. Muthia is used for Zardozi work, in which Kallavattu, Sitara, Moti or Salma is trapped. Some main varieties of this work are Dabka, Salma, Nakshi, Aara and Gota. The difference between Aari and Zardozi work is in the method of embroidery and material used. Zardozi uses Dabka (spring type of a thread), katori, tikena, and sitara (sequins). Both methods are used to create fascinating designs. This imperial metal embroidery is used to make exquisite evening dresses, coats, fashion accessories like purses, handbags, belts, shoes, ceremonial adornments like badges and insignia, furnishing accessories like cushion covers, wall hangings and boxes etc. |
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REGIONS BEST KNOWN FOR ZARDOZI WORK IN INDIA
- Agra
- Delhi
- Farrukhabad
- Jammu, Kashmir
- Kolkata
- Lucknow
- Varanasi
- Hyderabad
Process Stiches and Styles
Zari embroidery is done with a crochet hook using the metallic thread and appears like chain stitch. Zari elements like coiled wire, dabka, tilla, beads etc are used to create the motifs. The most prevalent zardozi elements segments of dabkaa, a tightly wound spiral metal, Kora, a heavier and darker dabkaa a square sided dabkaa that is wiry and erratic in appearance, sitaaras, round sequins, glass and plastic beads and kasab, silver or gold plated silver thread. |
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The process involves tracing out the design on the cloth preferably rich fabrics like silk, satin velvet etc. The fabric is stretched over the wooden frame and the embroidery work begins. Each zardozi element is picked up by the needle and incorporated appropriately into the pattern by pushing the needle in the fabric.
The process of creating zari threads and zardozi elements was rather complicated earlier. It needed a lot of patience and precision. Today the modern means may have made the task a little easier but still the adeptness and delicate handling remains the same. The art is now being used for soft furnishing products also. Dazzling golden beads on salma-sitara and resham are attracted by individuals on one sight. Even long Gowns, Jackets, Skirts, Purses and shoes uppers with Zari-Zardozi work are praised all over world. |
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Handicraft, Zari is one of the oldest traditions of the Bareilly district. Here more than 25000 families are engaged in manufacturing of Zari-zardozi items such wooden crafts, furniture. Exporting the zari items to many foreign countries like USA, Germany etc generates revenue of more than Rs. 50 million. |
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