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Featured Craft for the Month of August 2006 -Hand Printed Materials
   
   
 

The ethos and culture of Indus valley civilization has laid the basis for Indian printed fabrics. Recent excavations of Red sea ports have also brought wide range of printed textile in India where colour combinations and art has been extensively used. Printed fabrics commonly use throughout North India. They also became important export items. Recently in the last 10-15 years the ancient Indian printed textiles have been found in Indonesia and display astonishing range of textiles that have never seen before.

 
 

The hand-printing industry has important centres all over India. The most important cotton printing centres are found in the desert belt where people specialize in the use of alizarin, indigo and a range of vegetable colors. Direct printing, resist printing, and screen-printing are some of the techniques incorporated in these centres. But in certain cases the cloth is painted by using a pen with dyes and mordants which is commonly known as kalamkari

 
 

Rajasthan the ground of beauty has important centres for hand printing in jaipur, Barmer, Pali, Bagroo, Sanganer and in many others. Khaddar carried bold patterns on a dark background whereas red and black saturated prints give appearance of a rich silk than that of a coarse cotton material.

 

khaddar or coarse cloth and they carried bold patterns on a dark background. The back color was prepared with iron oxide, the brown and the red are also indigenous dyes, which require to be developed to the sun. The local word tapai is very expressive of this procedure. Flowing water and sandy banks of the river, which radiate sunlight, develop the color, giving them a glow. The red-and-black saturated prints gave the textile and appearance of a rich silk rather than that of a course cotton material.

   
 

The Jaipur printers presented most elegant and delicate designs such as ordhnis, covers, chaddars, printed patkas, sashes etc influenced by the court traditions. The cross-borders and pallus and the ordhnis also show a masterly handling of motifs to produce a harmonious and rich effect. Since the rulers of Jaipur were worshippers of Shive, the imprints of Shiva can be seen on the chaddar, the border is made of a flowing creeper enclosing the dhatura , hallucinogenic flower, associated with Shiva. The cross border carries the motif of the damroo , and the trushul, trident, in one row, enclosed by the border, and single dhatura flowers are distributed in rows.

 

 

 

In Gujarat state, Mandvi, Dhamadka, Mundra, Anjar, Jamanagar and Surendernagar, Jaitpur, Ahmedabad, Vadodara and deesa are important centers of printing. In Kuch, printing on silk and cotton was perfected a long time ago. The local handloom satin, known as gajji , was used for printing ordhnis , chaddars and yardage material for skirts. Ahmedabad and Vadodara produced prints for local consumption and exports. The prints for export particularly known as sodagiri were meant for export to southeast specifically for Thailand and Far East.

   
 

Hand-printing industry of Madhya pradesh can compete with the best. Tarapur and Umedpura. The printer specializes in printing fabrics with a blue background and yellow and red prints, known as nandra, which are simple flowering plants. Delhi has a large number of printing establishments, which cater to the local market as well as to export requirements.

   
 

Based on folk tradition of the area, Kolkata has developed its own motifs for printing, Alpana design done on the floor and Daccai design have been adapted for printing.

   
 

Farrukhabad, in Uttar Pradesh an important printing center produces bed covers, curtain and hangings for export to England, Europe and America. The tree-of-life design has been the most popular. Today cotton and silk printing is being carried out here on a large scale largely for export purposes.

   
 

The kalamkari technique was used mostly in the large painted hangings used in temples, which depicted scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata . The printing-and-kalamkari techniques, which are used in Gujarat for making the Devi-no-pardo, are quite remarkable. Here large hangings and canopies, chandoas, are made with the central figure of the goddest.

 
   
 
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