Okarl Lagerfeld introduced his viewers, together with Kristen Stewart, Lily Rose Depp and Tilda Swinton, again to his birthplace, Hamburg. We weren’t right here as a result of he felt nostalgic for his house city – that is far too indulgent an emotion for Lagerfeld, who by no means likes to look again. “I haven’t got the notion of house an excessive amount of. I am at house wherever I am going. I carry myself with me,” he stated backstage. “I am used to the place even when I had left it very younger.” What drew Lagerfeld again to Hamburg was not sentiment however structure. The town has a superb new opera home, the Elbphilharmonie, which performed host to the present. “I feel this constructing is genius. It seems to be like no sky scraper on earth,” enthused Lagerfeld. Designed by Herzog de Mueron, an enormous trendy live performance corridor has been constructed on prime of Hamburg’s greatest dockside warehouse. The breathtaking constructing, which rises just like the prow of an infinite ship over the river, impressed Lagerfeld.
Identical to the Elbphilharmonie, which re-appropriated an industrial constructing to make a shocking, trendy arts centre, he re-appropriated the working wardrobe of Hamburg’s sailors, to make one thing contemporary.
A 35-piece orchestra performed music specifically composed by British cellist Oliver Coates, as fashions stalked the terraced seats of the live performance corridor in outsized navy cable knits, button entrance trousers and sailor caps (additionally appropriated by The Beatles after their spell in Hamburg within the early 1960s).
The model’s well-known tweed go well with got here with a sailor collar and was worn with Chanel’s scorching new bag – an outsized duffel. Different boxy baggage held on chain straps and appeared like miniature variations of the transport containers stacked on Hamburg’s dockside.
The suggestion of town scape appeared to pervade the gathering. Tweed skirt fits have been shot by with shimmering lurex as if to imitate the lights of Hamburg mirrored within the water that surrounds it. These tweeds, by the best way have been hand-made by artisans.
The Métiers d’Artwork present is devoted to the small specialist ateliers that Chanel owns, and whose craft and traditions the home preserves. Their abilities have been on present tonight. The present closed with Anna Ewers and Kaia Gerber carrying nautical striped mini attire that mimicked sailor’s tunics. On nearer inspection, the stripes have been made totally from feathers, individually dyed and stitched to create the impact. These night items have been typical of a group that majored on garments ladened with craft. The general look was sober however stunning – an aesthetic that spoke on to Lagerfeld’s Hamburg roots. “Hamburg was at all times form of discreet. It is not a red-carpet metropolis,” stated the designer. “Hamburg folks – they by no means confirmed how wealthy they have been however they have been very wealthy,” he stated and with this un-showy however fantastically crafted assortment, Chanel folks will do the identical.